In late 2018, I had the opportunity to take a three-day tour of Litchfield and Kakadu National Park in the 'Top End' of Australia: the tropical region of the Northern Territory in and around Darwin. It was quite a little trip. There were around a dozen of us, all different nationalities, packed into a four-wheel-drive van as it sped into the dusty summer wilderness. Litchfield National ParkThe first stop was Litchfield National Park to the southwest of Darwin. Given how incredibly, oppressively hot it was (I don't recommend ever visiting this part of the world in the dead heat of the Aussie summer months), it was a godsend that we were able to cool off at two well-known swimming spots: Florence Falls and Wangi Falls. Crystal clear water. Shaded swimming spots. No man-eating crocodiles. Perfect. A famous feature of Litchfield National Park is the magnetic termite mounds. Thin, tall and eerily tombstone-like, each mound is orientated with its main axis running north-sound for heat management purposes (hence why their tiny builders are known as 'magnetic' or 'compass termites'). Best. Termite mounds. Ever. ...or are they? Litchfield is also home to many Cathedral termite mounds. They're impossible to miss. These epic structures (constructed simply from dirt, plant matter, and termite saliva and excrement, no less) can soar over four-metres high and be over a century old. They are the megacities of the insect world. Kakadu National ParkOf course, while Litchfield is near, it is nowhere near as amazing as Kakadu National Park. Southeast of Darwin, Kakadu is one of the largest national parks in Australia. It is roughly the size of Switzerland and is dual-listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List for both its remarkable natural wonder and cultural importance to this part of the planet. One of the highlights of my time in Kakadu was a cruise into the Yellow Water, a billabong (isolated and backwater branch of a river) on the South Alligator River floodplain that is brimming with native flora and fauna. This was a chance to explore the region's rich wetland areas and see Australian birds, saltwater crocodiles, and some (not-so-native) feral water buffaloes and wild horses. A note on crocodiles in the 'Top End': they are absolutely something to be taken seriously. The Northern Territory is home to perhaps the largest wild crocodile population in the world, including the estuarine or saltwater crocodile. It is the perfect predator, capable of growing to over six metres in length and willing to stalk and eat anything and everything. Including humans. In fact, from 2005 to 2014, 15 people were killed in crocodile attacks in the Northern Territory. Pictured above: photos of our stopover at Nawurlandja lookout. It was a bloody hot day for a hike, but it offered a sweeping view across the national park and out towards Burrungkuy (Nourlangie Rock) which is renowned for its Aboriginal rock art. Speaking of Aboriginal art, Kakadu's reputation as a place of global cultural significance is well-earned. Some of the rock art in the area are up to 20,000 years old(!) and they provide a profound testament to the continuing Aboriginal presence in Australia. Even if many tourists come to this part of the 'Top End' for its natural wonders, its cultural heritage must be appreciated. My all-time favourite place in the national park (and I guess, therefore, by extension, one of my favourite spots in Australia) has to be Ubirr. This is a large rock formation in the East Alligator region of the national park that is, along with Burrungkuy, celebrated for its ancient Aboriginal rock paintings. Our tour group was lucky enough to stay for the sunset at Ubirr. And what a magnificent sunset it was, with the panoramic interplay of light and colours across the rocky outcrops and floodplains. Being able to witness this was probably what firmly sealed Ubirr as my most treasured place in Kakadu. And on the final day of the tour, we were able to visit Jim Jim Falls. Even though it was the dry season and didn't have any flowing water, it was still a majestic location with towering escarpments, monsoon forests, massive boulders, and a dark, 40-metre-deep plunge pool at the base of the waterfall. So in conclusion, what can I write to summarise my time visiting Litchfield and Kakadu National Park? To put it simply, because of them, the 'Top End' of Australia will always hold a special place in my memories. What is the 'Top End' then? It is a place of savannah woodlands and sweeping floodplains... birdlife and estuarine crocodiles... billabongs and scorching heat... waterfalls and escarpments... rock art and termite cathedrals... lush wetlands and blood-red sunsets... It was quite a little trip...
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AuthorMing is an economist, traveller, and creative writer from Melbourne, Australia. He’s a nebulous collection of particles on the lookout for a good corner to sit with a book and a cup of coffee. Archives
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