This is Cradle Mountain–Lake St Clair National Park, a weather-gashed and heath-rugged gem in the northwestern highlands of Tasmania. I arrived here from Launceston and was quickly struck by the wildness, the richness, and the diversity of its flora and fauna. By the chilly, primeval rainforests and grasslands. The slippery and saw-toothed rocks. The glacial pools and icy outpourings. And the intricately twisted pine trees and bumbling wombats. If the island of Tasmania could be seen as a frozen teardrop located below the main Australian body, then Cradle Mountain and its environs is a harsh and complex ice crystal nestled deep within that drop. Where I lodged, close to the titular mountain itself, is the trailhead of the world-famous Overland Track. However, tackling this particular challenge was not the reason I came here. No, instead, my goal was to climb Cradle Mountain alone for my 28th birthday. Here's the briefest of accounts of how I fared during my stay… The imposing and misty mountain itself is named after its supposed resemblance to a gold miner's cradle (a wooden box that was used to separate precious minerals from washdirt and water). It stands a touch over 1,500 metres above sea level and looms over the picturesque Dove Lake, with its odd boathouse and uncharacteristically tame-looking beaches. Close to the mountain is the fantastic "The Devils @ Cradle" sanctuary, which is a breeding and conservation facility for three highly threatened Tasmanian marsupials: the Tasmanian devil, the Spotted-tailed quoll, and the Eastern quoll. All of them are carnivorous, with the Tasmanian devil being the largest of the bunch. It is a stocky creature, with a ferocious bite, a ghastly cry (that sounds like, well, very devilish) and, tragically, is in dire danger as a species due to a grotesque facial tumour disease. Tasmanian Aboriginal people lived in these parts for over 30,000 years, possibly even much longer. These lands were also explored by immigrant prospectors, hunters, grazers, woodcutters, fur trappers, and plain-old adventurers until 1922 when it was declared a scenic reserve. It is, in my informed opinion, as utterly scenic and pristine as it is utterly unpredictable weather-wise. No one can predict the chaotic alpine weather here. Cradle Mountain receives regular doses of rain and snow, even sometimes in the summer months. And that's part of its charm, I suppose. So how did I go with conquering the mountain? It was a failure! I attempted to hit the summit of Cradle Mountain and I reached about nine-tenths of the way to the top before the weather took a turn for the worse. Thus, I was forced to turn back before the boulders became too slippery and treacherous to climb down. To compound my failed attempt, I ended up with a mild cold from the wintry wet weather exposure. Happy birthday, indeed! Oh well. Technically I’ve still “climbed Cradle Mountain” on my 28th birthday, no? Beyond mountains and nature, I should also mention I spent a short time exploring Launceston, a small riverside city of 110,000-ish people in northern Tasmania. I'd describe it as a cosy town, though it was regrettably more of a ghost village in the final leg of my stay due to a public holiday. Can't blame many of the locals for wanting to clear out and visit the natural treasures in their own backyard. Early in the morning, prior to my flight back home, I jogged from the city centre to Cataract Gorge Reserve on the South Esk River and witnessed the glorious sunrise. This is a must-see natural formation should you ever find yourself in Launceston. Peacocks were pecking sedately in the gardens. I saw a wallaby on the trail too, I think. And, on my way back to pack my bags, I spotted a cage with some monkeys in one of the local parks. Weird. Alright. I think it's time to head back to Melbourne and recover from the rest of my damn birthday cold.
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AuthorMing is an economist, traveller, and creative writer from Melbourne, Australia. He’s a nebulous collection of particles on the lookout for a good corner to sit with a book and a cup of coffee. Archives
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